Archive for January, 2012

Trip Ideas for Independent Travellers in 2012

Thursday, January 26th, 2012

The end of a year has always been a time to look back, to reflect on where you’ve been and what you’ve learned. But it’s also a time to look ahead at the coming year, to make plans, to dream. In order to provide you with ideas and inspiration, and get you thinking about where you want to travel this year, here are four destinations worthy of consideration in 2012. Two of the places were chosen because there’s something special happening this year that makes 2012 an ideal time to visit. Even if you pick a totally different destination, what matters is that you’re going out to see the world.

Copan, Honduras

December 21, 2012 marks the end of a cycle of 5,125 years since the beginning of the Mayan Long Count calendar in 3113 BC. Some people think this means the Mayans predicted the world would end on this day, but most modern Mayan scholars actually think it’s simply the end of one era and the beginning of another, a time of rebirth and celebration.

No matter which you believe, if you want a ringside seat for the event, you’ll have plenty of ancient Mayan sites to choose from. Honduras, and specifically the ruins at Copan, should be at the top of your list. Less touristic than Tikal, Chichen Itza, or Tulum, Copan sits just one mile outside of the of Copan Ruinas, a hilly small town where cowboys still ride through the cobblestone streets and vendors sell handmade tortillas from street stalls for only a dollar. Outside of town, you can visit a coffee plantation, learn to cook a traditional Honduran meal, or soak in a natural hot spring. And unlike neighbouring Costa Rica, Honduras has yet to become an eco-adventure hotspot, so it’s a bit easier to get off the beaten path, plus, since the country experience a major drop in tourism in 2009 (due to the ousting of President Zelaya and the resulting protests) and is still recovering, it’s cheaper than more popular destinations in the region.

The big day is predicted for December 21, 2012, which falls during the country’s dry season when temperature are hot but not too humid and there is little rain.

Chichen Itza, Mexico

Hidden deep within the jungles of the Yucatan Peninsula lie the ruins of one of the largest cities of Mayan civilisation. Chichen Itza is noted for illustrating the fusion of Mayan-Toltec civilizations, through its multitude of elaborate and highly decorated ceremonial structures, including temples, pyramids, palaces and observatories.

Highlights of this UNESCO World Heritage site include the Great Hall Court, El Castillo and the Temple of the Warriors. Visit in March to witness the Descent of Kukulcan, where sculptures of Feathered Serpents running down the sides of the northern staircase of El Castillo, appear to come to life.

As above, the big day is December 21, 2012. Join the celebrations at El Castillo, the grand pyramid in Chichen Itza dedicated to Kukulkan, a feathered serpent deity.

Chile

Although Chile isn’t as popular as other South American countries such as Peru, Brazil, Argentina or Colombia, it offers plenty for the independent traveller. From the dry deserts and unique landscapes of the north to the bustling metropolis that is Santiago, to the beauty of the lake districts and the wildness of Patagonia in the south, Chile has a diversity of scenery not found in many other countries. Add in the friendly locals, the amazing beef that rivals neighbour Argentina, and a plethora of seafood with nearly 4000 miles of coastline, and Chile should start getting some attention.

While Chile isn’t as cheap as some other South American destinations like Peru and Bolivia, cost of travel is still extremely low when compared to more western locations like Europe and North America. There is a major international hub in Santiago, and the overland transport options are many, with cheap and comfortable overland buses and unique river and fjord travel options in the south. If you’re a hiker and outdoors type, Torres del Paine in Chilean Patagonia regularly tops lists of greatest places in the world to trek. The landscape of this country nestled between the Atlantic and the Andes needs to be seen to be believed, and if you are into lakes, glaciers, volcanoes, beaches, and salt flats, you’ll be happy with a trip to Chile.

Because Chile spans such a large north to south area, when you visit largely depends on where you’re going. If heading to Patagonia in the south, then the summer months of December to February provide the best weather (but also the larger crowds and prices).

If visiting the central part of the country (Santiago and Valparaiso), visiting any time between October and April is good, but spring or fall will provide you with the most pleasant time. The areas in the north, including the Atacama Desert (the driest desert on Earth), can be visited year-round, just be aware of the altitude, which means hot days and cool nights no matter what time of year you visit. Summer is the rainy season in the northern altiplano, but you can expect just an afternoon shower daily instead of weeks of rain at a time.

Nicaragua

Central American countries have been gobbled up by independent travellers for years. Costa Rica was an early and obvious target, and in recent years Guatemala and Panama have risen up the ladder as well. While Nicaragua isn’t exactly undiscovered, however, it doesn’t tend to be as popular with travellers – making it an ideal ‘next stop’ on your Central American tour.

Like other countries in Central America, Nicaragua is an excellent destination for eco-tourism – between two long stretches of coastline on the Pacific Ocean and Caribbean Sea there are volcanoes to hike and huge lakes to enjoy, not to mention places like the famous Corn Islands just offshore. Nicaragua’s capital of Managua was severely damaged in a 1972 earthquake, but the gorgeous colonial cities of Granada and León more than makes up for whatever Managua lacks. Granada is Nicaragua’s oldest colonial city, and León has some of the best-preserved colonial architecture in the country.

While the price of travel in many parts of Central America remains fairly low and you won’t lure anyone to Nicaragua solely because of the promise of cheap travel, Nicaragua is far cheaper to visit than Costa Rica or Panama. It’s one of the best bargains in the region, and with tourism numbers increasing exponentially in recent years it’s not likely to stay that way forever.

Argentina Hits Back Over Falklands

Thursday, January 26th, 2012

Argentina’s president has hit back at British Prime Minister David Cameron’s claims that her government has “colonialist” aims on the Falkland Islands.

Returning to work after what proved to be a false cancer diagnosis that prompted doctors to remove her thyroid, Cristina Fernandez showed off her scar during an animated address to her ministers that was broadcast nationwide.

Questions raised by opposition media about her diagnosis and operation had prompted Fernandez to release her medical records.

Doctors removed the entire gland after discovering several more lumps during surgery. Tests then showed the growths were benign.

She concentrated much of her speech at Cameron, who angered Argentines while she was away by accusing them of having “colonialist” attitudes toward the Falklands. “I heard they’re calling us colonialist. … One is always tempted to respond, but I think it’s better to avoid it. When they say these things it’s exactly because they don’t have reasons or arguments,” she said.

Argentina has called on Britain to negotiate the sovereignty of the remote South Atlantic archipelago it calls the Malvinas. Britain has maintained a military presence there since liberating the islands in 1982 from an ill-fated Argentine attempt to take them back.

Fernandez announced that she is making public the Rattenbach Report, a long-secret analysis of Argentine leadership failures that called the war a “military adventure” and recommended criminal penalties for those responsible. The report was prepared in 1982, just before the end of Argentina’s dictatorship, but was kept classified to keep anyone from being punished.

Fernandez sought to draw a clear line between what she called the militarism of other governments and the democracy she leads.

“Next year will mark 180 years since the usurpation by the government of United Kingdom, which threw out the Argentines who were there (on the islands). They want to make us out to be the bad and violent little ones, something we’re not,” she said.

She noted that there are more British people living in Buenos Aires than on the disputed islands, and praised the many British businesses located in Argentina. “I would advise Cameron to have a little talk with the executives of these businesses, so that they can tell him how we Argentines are.”

Suriname Team Find 46 New Species in Tropical Forests

Thursday, January 26th, 2012

An expedition to a tiny South American country has revealed more than 40 species that scientists believe to be new to science.

The expedition to the pristine tropical forests of Suriname was led by the charity Conservation International.

The collaboration between scientists, indigenous people and students recorded 1,300 species in total.

The team is now working to confirm which of these weird and wonderful creatures are newly discovered species.

Among those they believe to be new to science are the “cowboy frog”, an amphibian with white fringes along its legs, and a spur-like structure on its “heel.”

Another colourful addition to the scientific record is a cricket, or katydid, that has been named the “crayola katydid” because of its bright colouration.

One of the new finds – an armoured catfish that has bony plates covered with spines all over its body to defend itself from the giant piranhas the inhabit the same waters – was almost eaten by one of the expedition guides.

Fortunately, before the guide had a chance to tuck in, the scientists noticed the fish’s unique characteristics and preserved it as a specimen.

The three-week project was part of Conservation International’s ongoing Rapid Assessment Program (RAP), which has been in progress for more than 20 years.

RAP director Dr Trond Larsen explained why this area of Suriname was so special.

“As you fly into the area, you travel for hundreds of miles and often (don’t) see a single road – just continuous forest,” he told BBC Nature.

“It’s one of the last places in the world where you can find that wilderness.”

Dr Larsen pointed out that conservationists often focused on places that were “already on the brink.”

“We take these wildernesses for granted,” he told BBC Nature. “But unless we focus on them now, they won’t be like that for long.”

The team have already helped the local people to designate an area of the forest as a “no take zone.”

The eventual plan is for this area to become a small nature reserve.

This could safeguard native wildlife, ensuring that indigenous people are able to hunt sustainably, as well as encouraging ecotourism.

Ten Places in South America to Escape the Northern Winter

Thursday, January 26th, 2012

In the Southern Hemisphere, it’s summer, and in South America, there is plenty of warm weather, sun, sandy beaches perfect for snorkelling, surfing and sunbathing and lush, green forests and mountains for hiking and camping.

In the mild summer weather of Patagonia in the southern part of the continent, you can zip-line through forest canopies or jet-ski across crystalline, azure lakes. In the tropical rainforests of Colombia and Venezuela, you can trek through steamy jungles to catch a glimpse of colourful birds and exotic animals. Most of South America lies in the Southern Hemisphere, but even in the Northern Hemisphere countries, the weather is generally much warmer at this time of year than in North America or Europe. Head south both to escape the cold and to have the adventure of a lifetime. Here are ten suggestions to get you started:

Los Roques Archipelago National Park, Venezuela

By far, the most pristine and lesser-known group of islands in the Caribbean, Los Roques is an atoll of 350 beach-fringed islands and cays lying 80 miles north of the coast of Venezuela. A 546-acre nature reserve was created in 1972 to protect an extensive ecosystem of islands, beaches, coral reefs, sea turtles, seabirds, marine life, mangroves and sea grass beds. The dazzlingly white sand beaches and shallow, turquoise warm waters are excellent for snorkelling, scuba diving, wind-sailing, kite-surfing, sport fishing and boating and the wide, shallow flats allow beach-goers to stroll into the ocean knee-deep far from the beach.

Most people travel to Los Roques in organized groups, specifically for fishing or diving trips, but it is possible to travel independently. Using a travel agency is advisable, given the currency-exchange, security and logistical challenges of travelling within Venezuela, but if you prefer to go it alone, flights leave daily from Caracas or Isla Margarita (Margarita Island) and hotels at various price levels are plentiful.

San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina

The stunningly beautiful, forested lake district of Argentina known by locals as simply Bariloche, is famous for its crystal blue lakes and rivers dotted with green islands and its backdrop of emerald hills and the snow-capped Andes Mountains. In the Southern Hemisphere winter, it is a mecca for skiers and winter sport enthusiasts, but it is still lively during the summer months of December through April as a centre for trekking, camping, forest canopy zip-lining, boating, Jet-skiing, rock-climbing, white-water rafting, kayaking, paragliding, scuba diving, canoeing, horseback riding and 4×4 off-road excursions.

Located in the centre of Patagonia, with a quaint Bavarian-themed town centre famous for its chocolate and dulce de leche, Bariloche is an excellent base for exploring nearby mountain trails and nature reserves such as Nahuel Huapi National Park, the oldest in Argentina. Bariloche has many direct flights from Buenos Aires, Argentina and Santiago de Chile and can also be reached easily from most towns and cities through the expansive and generally reliable long-distance bus networks of South America.

Ilha Grande, Angra Dos Reis, Brazil

Ilha Grande (big island) is part of a group of twenty-two islands, filled with beautiful, tranquil coves and beaches, lying off the southeast coast of Brazil. Its beaches, such as Lopes Mendes Beach, are consistently rated as some of the best in the world, and are known for their ultra-soft white sand and waves perfect for surfing. The tranquil, laid-back town centre (no cars allowed) is easily walked, with many posadas or hostels available in all price ranges, numerous cafes and beach-side restaurants, travel agencies and shops.

After visiting the beaches, travellers looking for more action can try out the full- and half-day sailing excursions on pirate-themed schooners, snorkelling, scuba diving, fishing, surfing, swimming, exploring other islands and beaches, forest trekking, sea kayaking, camping or mountain biking. Although Ilha Grande has no commercial airport, it is a relatively short hop of about 3 and a half hours by bus from nearby Rio de Janeiro to Angra, where there is a connecting ferry. Ilha Grande is a great place to kick back and relax (or recuperate) after the excitement of Rio.

Puerto Maldonado, Peru

When visiting Peru, most travellers make a beeline to Machu Picchu, Arequipa or Colca Canyon, but the less frequented Amazonia area is well worth a visit. This thickly forested area of the Amazon, with its extensive river system, tropical rain forests and diverse wildlife is the jumping off point for Manú National Park, Tambopata National Reserve, and Bahuaja-Sonene National Park as well as a base for incredible guided nature walking tours, eco-hotels and bird- and animal-spotting 4×4 excursions.

Visitors can view a large variety of birds and animals, including many endangered species: tarantulas, anacondas, clay-eating macaws, parrots, toucans, jaguars, colourful butterflies, egrets, turtles, tapirs, caimans and peccaries are all in abundance. Direct flights from most cities of Peru are widely available. Reserving an eco-tour package is a good idea since many of the trails and excursions are inaccessible, and potentially dangerous, without a guide.

Estancias (Dude Ranches), Uruguay

Uruguay, known as the Switzerland of South America and an important ranching centre, has opened many of its traditional estancias to the tourist trade. The cost of running these vast, privately-owned cattle ranches has become prohibitive for most owners and instead of selling their properties, some of which have been in their families for generations, many families have opted to cater to guests. Many estancias now offer private or shared accommodations, asados (a variety of meats grilled outside on a wood fire), horseback riding lessons and a chance for visitors to experience the authentic South American cowboy or “gaucho” way of life first-hand by working as a ranch hand.

There is a wide variety of estancias, from very basic to luxurious, from rustic family-run working cattle ranches to elegant properties with pools, spas and room service. From Montevideo, take one of the many buses to the town closest to the estancia of your choice. Uruguay has an excellent, reliable cross-country bus system and most estancias offer pick-up service from nearby terminals.

Torres del Paine, Chile

Torres del Paine National Park in the south of Chile boasts almost 600,000 acres of untamed, protected wilderness. Towering mountains, glacial lakes, well-maintained trails and meadows filled with wildflowers are all abundant and the park is home to families of condors, pumas and guanacos. There is something for everyone: numerous hiking trails of varying difficulty and length, boat trips through iceberg-filled waterways, guided tours and glacier hiking. Visitors to the park can stay in nearby Puerto Natales or inside the park grounds at free or low-cost campsites, basic refugios, mid-range or luxury hotels. It’s possible to hike alone, in small groups, with a guided excursion, on a full moon night trek, a 4×4 day trip or explore on horseback.

The weather in the park is highly unpredictable and can be extreme, so raingear and warm clothing are essential even in summer, when the weather can go from warm and sunny to freezing cold with high winds and rain in a matter of minutes. Although the conditions can be challenging, it is well worth a visit to this savagely beautiful park. To reach the park, most travellers fly into Puerto Natales, Chile or El Calafate, Argentina, then take one of the hourly buses that leave from the town centre to the park entrance or hotels. Once you pay the park entrance fee, you can stay for as many days as you like inside the park, but be aware that, if you leave the park and want to return, you must re-pay the entrance fee.

Baños, Ecuador

A little known charming town filled with natural hot springs, great restaurants and shops, Baños (named “baths” for its thermal springs), is home to both Tungurahua, the largest volcano in Ecuador and to San Martin Zoological Gardens, a reserve dedicated to the protection of injured and endangered Amazonian animals and birds. It is a great, tranquil base for adventure sports, volcano trekking and exploring, hiking through cloud forests or the high Andes, river rafting, trekking, mountain biking, 4×4 off-road adventures, bird watching, volcano exploration tours or just relaxing in the town’s thermal baths.

Although a popular tourist stop, the town maintains a laid-back atmosphere, perfect for relaxing after a day of hiking up a volcano. To reach Baños, fly into Quito and take a connecting bus to the town centre.

Valle de Cocora, Salento, Colombia

One of the most uninhabited, pristine areas of Colombia, Valle de Cocora near Salento is also one of the most breathtaking hiking spots in the world. The valley’s trails offer spectacular views of the Andean volcanoes known as Los Nevados, cloud forests, lush countryside, green rolling hills, waterfalls and colourful, iridescent hummingbirds.

The area is also home to the tallest palm tree in the world, the Wax Palm, which can grow up to 70 meters high (about 230 feet). The trails are generally good, but can be uneven and include several river crossings so it’s best to go with a local guide. In Bogata or Cartegena, there are many travel agencies that can arrange 4×4 transportation and an English-speaking guide. The hike can be done in a day, but take food, plenty of water and warm clothes as this is a remote area with few, if any, places to buy supplies.

Mérida/Los Nevados, Venezuela

The town of Mérida lies between two Andean mountain ranges and is a hugely popular vacation spot for Venezuelans, but largely unvisited by foreign tourists. The topographically diverse countryside is home to four national parks, twelve state parks, snow-capped mountains, rainforests, waterfalls, lakes, coffee plantations and even a tropical beach (Playa Palmarito). From Mérida, it is possible to take side trips to visit local Andean communities and scenic lookouts.

Take a burro, jeep or cable car to lookout points or to remote mountain villages like Los Nevados, a town that lies between Mérida and the highest mountain in Venezuela, Pico Toro. The weather is spring-like and pleasant year round in Mérida, but can be much colder in the mountain villages, so take warm clothing. From the capital city of Caracas, fly or take a bus directly to Mérida.

The Pantanal, Brazil

The Pantanal in the south central area of Brazil is the world’s largest protected wetland at 54,000 square miles, with up to 12 sub-regional ecosystems. As of 2000, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but generally lesser known to non-Brazilians than the Amazon basin. The extensive nature reserve was established to protect the more than 1000 species of birds, 400 of fish, 300 of mammals, 480 of reptiles, 9,000 of invertebrates and 3,000 species of known plant life.

Camping, lodging, transportation and tour facilities are available and guides are recommended. Most hostels and hotels offer a package which includes piranha fishing, night safari jeep tours, horseback riding, river excursions, tubing and nature walks. Fly into Sao Paulo or Rio de Janeiro and take a connecting flight to the any of the towns closest to the wetlands: Campo Grande or Bonito in the south, Cuiaba in the north or Corumba in the west. Excursions or independent transportation can be booked from any of the towns and leave daily.

Click And Save The Rainforest With Green Search Engine

Friday, January 20th, 2012

Search advertising is a colossal business that touches pretty much every web user. So a search engine that diverts the bulk of the cash raised to protecting a rainforest in northern Brazil looks, like all the best ideas, simple and good.

The site is Ecosia and has just passed £500,000 in funds raised, 24 months on from its launch. The search engine mask at Ecosia.org, is powered by Bing and Yahoo, and 80% of the revenue from the search advertising goes straight to the WWF Amazon Initiative, which manages a number of conservation projects in the Tumucumaque region.

The Tumucumaque region in northern Brazil harbours one of the world’s largest tropical forest reserves (38,867 square kilometres) – it’s also one of the most biologically diverse regions on the planet – making it a widely accepted global priority for conservation and sustainable development.

By making Ecosia your default search engine, you can turn your web searches green, reduce your carbon footprint and make a real difference to the planet. Instead of causing CO2 emissions with your searches, you can actually help to avoid climate change because your searches will help to save endangered rainforests.

Not only does Ecosia make it easy to help save the rainforest – they also offset the emissions from each search with PURE and the Gold Standard. Ecosia’s own servers even run on green electricity, so they do not cause any CO2 emissions.

There are other green searches, like Green Maven and Ecosearch, but Ecosia impresses us most. In addition to the benefits mentioned above, Ecosia is also the best choice if you are concerned about privacy. Some search engine companies store your web searches for several months and even analyze them to create a profile of you. They sometimes even sell this information to other companies. Ecosia, in contrast, deletes all user-related data within a maximum of 48 hours.

If you like what Ecosia are doing, help them spread the word!

Inca Trail Travel Guide

Thursday, January 19th, 2012

A trek along an ancient path between soaring mountains to get to a secret city – the Inca Trail is the stuff of travel legend

Located in southern Peru, not far from Cusco, the Inca Trail is the awesome Andean walk with the ultimate payoff: a path that runs along a scared valley, via a raging river, intriguing ruins and soaring condors, to pass through a regal gateway from which the Incan citadel of Machu Picchu unfurls before you.

Sadly you won’t be the first to have cottoned on to the wonder of the Inca Trail. Since Hiram Bingham ‘discovered’ Machu Picchu in 1911 – something the Spanish conquistadores failed to do centuries before – intrepid travellers have been tramping this stone-paved Incan highway to get to the hill-perched site.

In fact so many travellers were walking the Inca Trail that the Peruvian government stepped in, restricting numbers and banning independent trekking. You now need to apply for a permit to hike the Inca Trail, and you must hike with a guide.

This is a good thing. It has relieved some of the pressure on the Inca Trail, which is better for the fragile environment, and for your experience – the path and campsites will be far less crowded. It does mean you need to plan your hike in advance to ensure you get a place.

Advance planning is essential anyway. The Inca Trail is a four-day, 43km hike that reaches an altitude of 4,200m; you will be trekking for several hours a day, with some big ascents and descents. You need to be physically prepared before attempting it.

Your Peruvian guides and porters will help as much as possible, generally transporting your main pack, cooking you hearty meals and setting up camp each night, so you are free to just concentrate on the walk.

It’s well worth the sweat and strain, however – even if you don’t get the trail to yourself. Enjoy the scenery en route – there are plenty of Incan ruins, stunning Andean views and interesting flora and fauna that your guide will be able to point out – then prepare yourself for the sight of Machu Picchu itself: the icing on the cake.

Alternate Routes to Machu Picchu

Thursday, January 19th, 2012

There’s nothing like the satisfaction of approaching Machu Picchu on one’s own two feet, which is why the classic Inca Trail hike has become so popular in recent years. The time when a traveller could roll into Cusco and set up an Inca Trail trek for the following day or week has long since passed, though. To limit damage to the trail, the Peruvian government now limits access to 500 persons per day, porters included. Permits for the peak summer season sell out months in advance.

Fortunately, the Inca were master road builders who blazed trails all throughout the Andes, and many of these are alternate routes to Machu Picchu (or at least you get as close as a quick train ride). Here are six alternatives, most of which require no permits and can be arranged through any reputable outfitter in Cusco. Some of these hikes are available in multiple variations and can be tailored to meet a particular fitness level; those listed here are among the most popular versions.

1. The Salcantay Route

The classic Inca Trail is famed for the diversity of its topography and ecosystems; the Salcantay Route’s smorgasbord is even more impressive. The 20,500-feet-high Mount Salcantay was one of the holiest apus, or sacred peaks, in the Inca religious pantheon. It’s still revered today in traditional Andean religion. This mule-assisted hike cuts through the beautiful Mollepata Valley and traverses past Salcantay at an altitude above 15,000 feet. From those chilly heights, the trail descends into subtropical cloud forest, where it meets up with an ancient Inca highway (part of the original Capac Ñan network that connected the far ends of the empire) that leads to the recently rediscovered ruins of Llactapata. From there, one can gaze a few miles across the valley to take in a rare sidelong view of the full Machu Picchu complex. A downhill walk ends at the small train station, where a frequent shuttle runs along the Urubamba River to Aguas Calientes, the town at the base of Machu Picchu.

Trip Length: 5 to 8 days

Difficulty Level: Medium to difficult

2. The Lares Route

The Sacred Valley, through which hundreds of thousands of train-riding visitors pass each year on their way from Cusco to Machu Picchu, is justifiably famous for its beauty. It’s also a little crowded. Just beyond the massive snow-capped peaks that mark the Sacred Valley’s northern edge, however, sits the Lares Valley. Here, life continues much as it has for centuries. Locals in traditional Andean dress plant potatoes by hand, raise herds of llamas and alpacas, and weave cloth as they have for generations. Those farmers and artisans may be the only other people you see for days. This trek usually starts at the tiny town of Lares, home to a famous hot spring, and passes through several villages. Along the way it provides close-up views of the 18,000-plus feet of Mount Veronica and several high-altitude lakes. It ends near the historic ruins of Ollantaytambo, and from there the train trip to Machu Picchu is only 90 minutes.

Trip Length: 3 to 5 days

Difficulty Level: Medium

3. The One-Day Inca Trail

The standard Inca Trail trip takes four days, though it’s probably better to do it in five. Travellers who want to see two of the greatest hits of the famous hike but who are short on time can opt for this truncated version, which begins at KM 104 of the Machu Picchu train line. A three-hour uphill hike leads to Wiñay Wayna, a spectacular site of stone ruins and curved agricultural terraces that cling to a steep ridge high above the Urubamba River. Hikers can choose between walking ahead the same day to Machu Picchu, or spending one night on the trail, so as to be able to enter the lost city at dawn via the Sun Gate, the dramatic entrance that provides Inca Trail trekkers with their first glimpse of the site. Note: The one-day Inca Trail requires one of the 500 daily Inca Trail permits, and therefore must be booked far in advance.

Trip Length: 1 day (2 if you camp overnight)

Difficulty Level: Medium

4. Vilcabamba Traverse Route

This weeklong walk covering 60 mountainous miles is not for the faint of heart or weak of legs. Starting at the town of Cachora, a two-day hike crosses the mile-deep Apurimac River canyon to the remote ruins of Choquequirao (the name means “Cradle of Gold” in Quechua), which have become famous in recent years for their similarity to Machu Picchu. The route then continues—in some spots along original stone Inca highways—through the sparsely populated Cordillera Vilcabamba, which looks much the same as when Hiram Bingham first explored here a century ago. Trekkers traverse a mountain range, cross rivers and valleys, and cut through several of Peru’s diverse biozones: dry scrub, lush cloud forest, and puna, a high-altitude grassland. The trek ends a short walk or train ride from Machu Picchu.

Trip Length: 7 to 13 days

Difficulty Level: Difficult

5. The Lodge Trek

This new route is for those who want to hike like an old-school Andean explorer by day but sleep between clean sheets each night after cocktails and a gourmet meal. (And who don’t mind paying for the privilege of staying at the four fully serviced private lodges that dot the route.) The journey is similar to the Salcantay Route, offering close-up views of the sacred apu and its glaciers, but places an emphasis on comfort rather than on roughing it. The trail reaches a height of 15,000 feet before descending into a lush valley where coffee and bananas grow. Luxury lodgings near Machu Picchu and a private tour guide at the ruins are usually included in the price of a package tour.

Trip Length: 7 to 11 days

Difficulty Level: Medium

6. The Chaski (or Cachicata) Trail

The outposts of the vast Inca Empire were kept connected by fleet-footed chaski messengers, who ran so fast (according to lore) that the emperor was able to dine in Cusco on fresh fish from the Pacific Ocean, a mountainous 300 miles away. This high-altitude route follows some of the same paths those runners might have used, and takes in scarcely visited Inca buildings, water channels, and quarries, where one can see firsthand how the Inca obtained the stone they used in their building projects. Most versions of the Chaski Route include a stop at the spectacular waterfall named Perolniyoc and its nearby ruins. The trail ends at Ollantaytambo, where trekkers can visit one of the most famous sets of Inca ruins before hopping the train to Machu Picchu.

Trip Length: 3 to 5 days

Difficulty Level: Medium

Shoes Needed for Haiti

Wednesday, January 18th, 2012

The Share Your Soles warehouse is now completely empty and they need your help replenishing shoes for their next stop, Haiti. It has been three years since the earthquake and not much has changed. The Gross national income per capita is US$660, about half the total for Nicaragua, the second poorest country in the Americas. 78% of Haitians are poor making less than US$2 a day and more than half (54%) live in extreme poverty (less than US$1 a day). In rural areas, poverty and extreme poverty rates are estimated to be 84% and 69% respectively. Over two-thirds of the labour force does not have formal jobs and the life expectancy is 61 years due to the extreme poverty. Haiti is in great need of help.

This is a call to action to help these people living in severe poverty. They need shoes, gently worn or new. Monetary donations are also needed to fund the help they need (i.e. they hire locals to help distribute the shoes). They have set a goal of taking at least 5,000 pairs of shoes. They desperately need participation from everyone who can help. If you can donate what you have at home, to organizing a shoe drive, or even a monetary donation would be great. This is a great task and it will take many to complete it, so please join them in the mission to help Haiti and bring them shoes!

Please visit the Share Your Soles website (www.shareyoursoles.org) or send an email to info@shareyoursoles.org for further information.

Stop the Occupation of Haiti! Money for Reconstruction not Militarization!

Wednesday, January 18th, 2012

Two years ago a massive earthquake ripped through Haiti shattering thousands of buildings, lives and hearts in just 30 seconds. The response from around the world was immediate and generous: over 3 billion dollars of aid was promised to Haiti from individuals, organizations and governments. But in a nation where a half million people still live in tents and rubble covers the streets, Haitians are asking: where did that money go?

The answer to that question unveils the all-pervasive role of militarization in U.S. policy towards Latin America and the Caribbean. Fully 33 cents of each US dollar for Haiti was used to reimburse the U.S. itself for sending 5,000 soldiers. This, and other shocking statistics, come from a recently published report by Bill Quigley and Amber Ramanauskas who followed the Haiti recovery money trail.

In addition to funding its own soldiers in Haiti under the guise of earthquake recovery, the U.S. government has contributed 40% of the 1.5 billion spent by the UN to maintain another force of 12,000 soldiers and police, known as MINUSTAH. While the name MINUSTAH is a French acronym for stabilization force, most Haitians view them as an occupation force. The recent SOAW delegation to Haiti confirmed the omnipresence of armoured tanks and gun-totting soldiers throughout the streets of Port-au-Prince.

Adding salt to the wound, a recent outbreak of cholera that added 6,000 more dead to Haiti’s tragic roster has been linked scientifically to the Nepalese contingent of MINUSTAH as the source of contamination. While contamination of the disease that infected 500,000 Haitians was not intentional, Haitians insist that the UN take responsibility for the consequences of the epidemic they caused. Some 5,000 victims have brought a lawsuit against the UN, with the help of BAI/IJDH.

Unfortunately, impunity rules and no troops have been prosecuted for the widespread sexual abuse of Haitian women and children. Only days ago the UN Peace keepers caught on tape raping a Haitian teenager last summer were freed. BAI lawyer Mario Joseph, a keynote speaker at the November SOA Watch vigil, expressed outrage, saying that the UN should demonstrate its commitment to its own principles of justice and human rights by conducting serious, prompt investigations, waiving its immunity where possible and allowing civil claims against it to be decided by an impartial tribunal.

Last Thursday Theresa Cusimano took the SOA to trial and will be spending 6 months in prison for speaking truth about U.S. militarization. The people of Haiti are standing up to the enormous power of the UN to demand respect for their rights. We should all support Haitians in their struggle to resist militarization and bring forth a new culture of peace. Say “No Màs!” to the culture of militarization and oppression.

Haiti: Two Years After The Earthquake, Where Did The Money Go?

Wednesday, January 18th, 2012

To see where the enormous sums of humanitarian aid directed to Haiti after its catastrophic earthquake in 2010 went, a good place to start is the ocean harbour. That’s where the island’s shore meets the rest of the world. And the best place for that is at the seaport in the nation’s capital: Port-au-Prince, near the earthquake’s epicentre.

There, at this moment, a gigantic “super maritime” cargo ship called the Sarine is off-loading more than five metric tons of rice that has just arrived from Miami.

If you think of the rice as post-earthquake assistance money – the individual grains as donated dollars – you might get some idea about what’s happened since the earthquake of 12 January, 2010. Not to mention a sense of where the individual rice grains (or the dollars) have gone.

And, like the grains of rice aboard, the dollars mount into the hundreds of millions; even billions. According to some reports, the United States government, American individuals, families and humanitarian groups donated approximately US$3 billion. That’s just from America with a total of something like US$12 billion coming from all donor nations for funds to be disbursed.

Still, somehow, no one seems quite sure precisely how many grains – or dollars – we’re talking about. The accounting seems to have a sliding scale that can move hundreds of millions of dollars one way or another. At the time of publication, President Bill Clinton, the UN Special Envoy to Haiti and the co-chair of overseeing the nation’s re-construction for the last two years, hasn’t responded to repeated requests by Global Post regarding specific aid and cash donation figures.

Where those billions went following the 7.0-magnitude earthquake that left a government an estimated figure of 220,000 people dead and at least 1.6 million more homeless remains a confounding mystery. Inside of the recovery effort, however, are unquestionable successes along with the failures. And, to be fair, because the money came in so quickly and in such great volume, much of it has been wasted or lost like so much rice spilling on the docks. Or stolen, like the sacks of rice from the seaport which will end up in Haiti’s black market for food.

As for this specific ship, the Sarine, it has a double-steel hull and is roughly 330 feet long. And now, pulled up to the quay in Port-au-Prince, the “grabbing box” from a huge off-load crane reaches down into the vessel’s hold, and, like the hand of God, lifts another half-ton or so of rice out – hundreds of thousands of individual grains of rice. Then the loose rice is dumped into a white, V-shaped steel hopper whose nozzle sits inside a small hut on the Port-au-Prince waterfront.

Using gravity, the hopper directs the rice into 25-kg (55-pound) white plastic bags, with blue stars on their fronts and the words “AMERICAN RICE” written on their sides. After that – using a sewing machine – the top of each bag is sealed.

The rice bags move from the factory along an assembly line to waiting trucks which will travel deeper into Haiti to feed a nation still suffering from hunger on a vast scale.

But the economy of rice in Haiti says everything about the condition the country is in. The U.S. government subsidizes and “donates” ton after ton of rice in Haiti and in so doing has through the last several decades completely undercut Haitian rice farmers and left them destitute and migrating into cities where they live in hovels that were destroyed by the quake.

As recently as the early 1980s, Haiti was producing just about all of its own rice. Now more than 60 percent is imported from the U.S., making it the fourth largest recipient of American rice exports in the world. That was before the quake and now with donated rice coming in as well, Haiti is even more awash in rice while American agribusiness makes billions of dollars every year through generous government subsidies.

There is perhaps some bitter irony here that the subsidies were promoted in large part by President Clinton to help his home state of Arkansas, the largest rice producing state in the U.S., thereby crippling a sector of the economy in Haiti where Clinton has worked so tirelessly to help with the recovery.

“You might say it is a perfect metaphor for what is wrong with aid to Haiti,” says Marc Cohen, a senior researcher for Oxfam, one of the largest non-government organizations (NGOs) in the world, which raised approximately US$106 million for a three-year response in Haiti and finds itself struggling to deliver the aid effectively.

“Instead of bringing subsidized rice in on ships from Miami, we could be helping Haiti grow rice in its own fields,” adds Cohen, who worked for many years in Haiti with the International Food Policy Research Institute and studied the broad economic impact of US rice subsidies, or “Miami rice,” as it is known in Haiti.

Cohen was part of a team at Oxfam America that this week delivered a scathing report on how reconstruction in Haiti was proceeding at a “snail’s pace,” leaving half a million Haitians still homeless two years after the quake. It urged the Haitian government and donor countries to accelerate the delivery of funds for reconstruction. It applauded the initial emergency relief effort, but said the Haitian government and donor countries have failed to come up with a coordinated strategy to rebuild the country and house the more than 500,000 people still living in tents and under tarpaulins without access to running water, a toilet or a doctor.

According to recently published reports by Oxfam, the UN, the U.S. Government Accountability Office and international aid experts interviewed by Global Post, billions of dollars of aid were pledged to Haiti’s reconstruction, but promises of funding have not translated into money on the ground. According to the UN report, as of the end of September 2011, donors had disbursed just 43 percent of the total US$4.6 billion pledged for reconstruction in 2010 and 2011.

Officials heading up USAID’s efforts in Haiti say they are frustrated by the political and practical realities that slow the pace of reconstruction. They point to costly and painful failures such as the lack of preparedness for the cholera outbreak which still looms over Haiti. But they also point to hard-fought successes particularly in agriculture, where the average salary of a farmer has risen from US$600 a year to US$1,100 a year through improved irrigation and infrastructure which have resulted in higher yields.

Elizabeth Hogan, Director of Haiti Task Team for USAID, told Global Post, “Fixing Haiti is not something that can be done in the short term. It requires Haitians to take ownership of fixing their own country and their own problems with the support of the international community and increasingly private investment.”