Semana Santa or Holy Week is the most important Catholic religious festival in Peru and is celebrated vigorously every year. Semana Santa celebrates the last days of Christ’s life, the Crucifixion and Resurrection, as well as the end of Lent. Semana Santa is observed with a range of celebrations throughout Peru.
Perhaps the most famous Semana Santa celebrations occur in Ayacucho, Peru, where the entire town participates in the Holy Week event. Semana Santa celebrations are concentrated in the Andean highland villages, where the mix of Catholicism and pagan religions creates some of the most colourful and fervent festivals. Ayacucho, Cuzco, Huaraz and Tarma each have week-long observances, but Ayacucho is most famous for its Holy Week celebrations.
In Ayacucho, the ceremonies begin on the Friday before Palm Sunday, with the enactment of the meeting between Christ and his mother, the Virgen Dolorosa. Palm Sunday is a festive occasion, with mules and palms waving throughout the city. Throughout the week, daily and evening processions allow the participants to demonstrate their devotion. An open air market with crafts, food, and music draws a huge crowd who enjoy chicha or chacta with a chew of coca leaves. A traditional belief holds that since Christ is now dead, and not yet risen, there is no such thing as a sin. Consequently, participants in Ayacucho’s holy week celebrations use this time to party and behave as they please until Sunday’s resurrection ceremonies.
Tarma is often called the Pearl of the Andes for its scenic beauty. The streets where the processions march are covered in carpets and arches of flowers (see image), created by the devout citizens of the town. Celebrations begin on Thursday with the procession of the Virgen de Dolores, continue with the daily observances, and end with the traditional Easter Sunday processions. A tradition for the artisans creating the floral works is to end the day with a calientito, hot tea with lemon and chacta (cane liquor) to keep the creative spirit warm.
In Huaraz, year-long preparations culminate in a carefully choreographed week of celebrations. Beginning with Palm Sunday, an effigy of Christ is carried on a donkey into the city. Celebrations end on Domingo de Resurrección with fireworks and the release of hundreds of birds. Huaraz observes Semana Santa rituals with piety and devotion.
In Cuzco, capital of the Inca Empire, Semana Santa observations revolve around the Señor de los Temblores. Legend has it that the statue of Christ, sent by Philip V of Spain to aid in the conversion of the Indians, became emaciated and blackened following an earthquake on 31 May, 1650. The statue, now resembling the native population, has been revered since as the Cristo de los Temblores (Christ of the Earthquakes). The processions through the streets are coloured by strips of textiles woven with gold thread that hang in the windows of houses, enlivened by firecrackers and noise makers. A different slant to the religious rituals occurs on Good Friday when abstinence is not practiced. Instead, participants feast on twelve traditional dishes, from soups, fish, potato dishes to desserts.
In Chiclayo, processions feature wooden pasos, platforms for statues of Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary, that represent different stages in the last few weeks of Jesus’ life. Although now a major commercial centre for the region, Chiclayo was originally an Indian village run by Spanish priests. Local ceremonies and traditions are a paradoxical mix of Indian and Christian customs. Bands and costumes are a big feature during Semana Santa, with festivities lasting well into the early hours.
In Arequipa, the Semana Santa celebrations take the form of massive processions in the centre of town, with participants dressed in mourning clothes, in the style of Seville in Spain. On the morning of Easter Sunday, Penitents vent their anger by the burning of effigies of Judas in two of the town’s plazas. The celebrations for Semana Santa in the picturesque colonial town of Arequipa are some of the best to visit in Peru.